Ace The Base

Two celebrated makeup artists take the guesswork out of finding the perfect foundation.

Don’t we all wish we could go cosmetics shopping with a makeup artist. If you have the benefit of working with them and observing them at their craft, watch closely and ask lots of questions – you will glean priceless application tips and the best product recommendations every time. If I know how to apply mascara and which gel liner will survive a 10km run in a heavy downpour, it’s through years of rubbing shoulders with walking, talking beauty encyclopedias like Clarence Lee and TG Goh, both makeup artists and all-round beauty pros.

I don’t wear foundation because it always looks too obvious on me, and because it adds years and unwanted shine to my face – a double whammy. I like to let my bare skin shine through for the most part (but then I’m lazy too), so my go-to face base is a mattifying compact powder from M.A.C called Blot Powder that works just fine for me.

But wearing foundation serves many purposes, and I know many women who’d feel naked without it, as if their makeup were only half done.

With or without SPF (sun protection factor), foundation acts as a physical sunscreen, as well as a shield to protect the skin from other forms of environmental pollution. Foundation also evens out the skin if you have reactive skin and suffer from allergy redness. Another case for foundation: it gives your makeup a more flawless veneer and a professional finish too.

That’s all well and good, but how do you pick the right one for your skin?

I found the next best thing to shopping with beauty pros, Clarence and TG: I grilled them for fail-safe pointers and tips on shopping for foundation, which they have strategically condensed into these five aspects:

1. Know the types and formulations.

Suffice to say, there is a mind-boggling array: from liquid, powder-to-cream, glow-inducing cushion, to solid in a stick. Each of these may also come in mattifying, moisturising, balancing, anti-ageing and more formulas, or ones that offer luminosity and radiance. And don’t get me started on the brands… Array is an understatement, you get the picture. Don’t be discouraged, though, as Clarence and TG have offered their very contained go-to lists of ace bases. Find them at the end of this story

2. Know your skin type.

No matter your age, if you have a dry complexion, a hydrating liquid or cushion foundation that offers a dewy finish should work nicely. An oily or combination complexion will need a mattifying powder to cream or solid stick foundation, although a mattifying cushion formulation could work too. If you have mature skin that has fine lines and is oily as well (like mine), a sheer formulation from a cushion that’s light and not cakey is a good option. Or pick a lightly tinted one that has anti-ageing and skin firming properties. If you have hyper-sensitive and dry skin, a liquid mineral foundation or an organic vegan one will hydrate and prevent unpredictable flare-ups and allergies. Bottom line: pick a type you like (liquid, cushion, powder, stick) and find it in a formulation (mattifying, hydrating, sheer, anti-ageing) that suits your complexion best, easy-peasy.

3. Know your neck.

To find the right shade, aim for the neck (or jawline), not the back of your hand, not even your face, simply because foundation is meant to be blended right down to the jawline, neck, décolletage even, depending on your outfit. If you don’t want your face to be of a different colour from your jawline and neck, take the colour cue from these body parts. Confirm your shade under natural light, if the shop lights are not ideal. A good foundation should also be easy to blend into your skin.

4. Know yourself.

Be honest – are you lazy, busy, all-thumbs when it comes to makeup, or all of the above? Or so good with makeup you sometimes are tempted to make your own YouTube beauty tutorials, on top of having a ton of time on your hands? Most of us are a combination. Some days we want to take our time with our makeup because, oh, we have that luxury; some days we don’t even have time for a quick powder pat-down, so there. Cushions, compact powders and creams are great for if you like to speed through your makeup ritual. They are also practical for quick touch-ups, especially if you’re not so skilled in the makeup department.

Long-lasting formulations work for workaholics and playaholics. Water-proof ones will suit gym bunnies. Liquids are good if you’re quite deft with a sponge, a foundation application brush, or your fingers, or are willing to put in the time to get it right. It’s not a bad idea to have two different types – one for slow days and another for when you have to apply makeup in a great, big hurry.

5. Know how to apply it.

Some types, like liquid and stick foundations, are trickier to apply than others. If you don’t rub shoulders with the makeup pros, watch YouTube tutorials to learn the tricks. Otherwise, get a quick after-sales tip from the friendly beauty advisor who sold you the foundation. Less is more. Start with a little and build it up. Practice makes perfect.

There are many ways to apply and blend foundation – with a brush, a sponge, or your fingers. Although there are no hard and fast rules on how to apply foundation, or what to apply it with, the one rule to follow is to not leave your complexion patchy and cakey. Foundation should achieve a more flawless coverage for your complexion, not make you look like you’re wearing a (blotchy) mask.

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