We take a closer look at the four limited editions joining the Patrimony watch family in celebration of Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary
The Patrimony watch family celebrated its 20th anniversary last year, marking the two decades with a memorable limited edition timepiece crafted in collaboration with French designer Ora ïto. Minimalist and vintage-inspired, it embraces all that is loved about the Patrimony, and more. This year, as Vacheron Constantin celebrates its 270th anniversary, all eyes are peeled on what the Maison will unveil over its year-long celebration following the reissue of the Historiques 222. At Watches and Wonders, the spotlight turned naturally to the impressive Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première, the most complicated wristwatch ever made. But yet another anniversary launch had caught my eye – the new Patrimony watches with the sleek sliver-toned celebratory dials.
It takes a closer look, in real life, to fully appreciate the intricate details of the new Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date and Patrimony Self-Winding timepieces, offered both in 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold. In pictures, the geometric motif adds a point of interest to the distinctively minimalist dial that the Patrimony is known for. On the wrist, it is almost impossible to look away from, with every movement of the wrist and change in light revealing a different way to admire the detail.
Ever so subtle, the decorations on the dial are inspired by the Maltese Cross, Vacheron Constantin’s emblem since 1880. More than a stylistic choice, the Maltese Cross harks back to an ancient calibre component that ensures consistent power flow to the spring for optimal performance. And thus, a symbol that represents the Maison’s commitment to precision and savoir-faire. It is this level of detail and thought that makes the Maison’s timepieces so special.
Remarkably, the anniversary editions stand out while staying true to the understated, minimalist design codes that define the Patrimony. This is something that would be appreciated by fans of the Patrimony. After all, this classic collection is well-loved for its clean lines, taut curves and slim silhouette inspired by the ultra-thin, perfectly circular timepieces crafted by Vacheron Constantin in the 1950s. The defining characteristics include a round case with a slim bezel, a subtly domed dial with slender, curved applied hour-markers, curved baton-type hands and a ‘pearl’ minutes track.
Patrimony is a textbook example of understatement, with models directly inspired by the minimalist aesthetic of the 1950s – a time when horology was distinguished by its discreet presence.
Sandrine Donguy, Product & Innovation Director of Vacheron Constantin
If one is new to the Patrimony, the anniversary edition might just be the time to take the leap because the anniversary glow-up extends to the heart of the new Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date and Patrimony Self-Winding timepieces. Revealed through the sapphire caseback is the refined ‘côte unique’ finish on the bridges of each calibre, specially crafted for this anniversary. It looks deceptively simple but requires the utmost skill and precision by both human and machine to execute to perfection – a perfection of rich detail that invites one to take time to contemplate and appreciate.
The dedication to perfecting the anniversary calibres is what one would expect from the world’s oldest watch Maison in continuous operation since its founding. To create what looks like unbroken lines flowing from one bridge to another on each of the anniversary calibres, the artisans had to make precise adjustments, taking more than 500 hours to perfect the technique. The craft we are talking about here dates back to more than a century ago, and was only rediscovered in 2021 during the reproduction of the Historiques American 1921 watch.
The ‘côte unique’ is quite symbolic, since it is created by an ancestral craft that had been lost over time and that we had to relearn… Perpetuating ancestral skills, preserving knowledge and passing it on are key values that define Vacheron Constantin’s ongoing history.
Sandrine Donguy, Product & Innovation Director of Vacheron Constantin
Individually numbered, each of the anniversary references comes with a dark green Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with large square scales and tone-on-tone hand stitching. Completing the look is a polished 18K gold pin buckle in the shape of a half Maltese Cross. The choice of green here complements both the pink gold and white gold cases, and is versatile enough to go from night to day.
Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date
Limited to 270 pieces each, either white gold or pink gold, the 42.5mm Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date watch boasts a 40-hour power reserve powered by the self-winding manufacture Calibre 2460 R31L/270. The calibre bears the ‘côte unique’ finish and an openworked 22K gold oscillating weight with a Maltese cross, visible through the sapphire caseback.
On the upper part of the silver-toned dial bearing the 270th anniversary motif, lies the retrograde date indication via a central hand, a specialty of Vacheron Constantin’s since the 18th century, making it all the more special for an anniversary edition. This is balanced by the moon-phase display at six o’clock, set in an aperture graduated from 0 to 29.5. Following the cycle of the Moon, which rotates around the Earth in 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes, it only needs to be adjusted once every 122 years.
Patrimony Self-Winding
The Patrimony Self-Winding watch is slightly smaller at 40mm, but no less charming. The focus here is purely on the silver-toned dial distinguished by the 270th anniversary motif. The watch face is kept clean and minimalistic, displaying the hours, minutes and central seconds, as well as the date in an aperture at six o’clock. A stop-second system ensures perfect time-setting for optimum precision.
Available in a limited edition of 370 pieces, in either pink gold or white gold, it is powered by the manufacture Calibre 2450 Q6/270 with a 40-hour power reserve. Observe the bridges with the ‘côte unique’ finish, anniversary emblem and an 22K gold openworked oscillating weight incorporating a Maltese cross through the sapphire caseback.
As an everyday essential or a collector’s item, the new Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date and Patrimony Self-Winding timepieces epitomise the mechanical excellence and design elegance upheld by the Maison since its founding in 1755. Vacheron Constantin’s quest for watchmaking excellence continues, 270 years on, with every timepiece embodying the values that hold dear to the Maison, evident from the movement architecture, to the finishes, and masterfully crafted calibres.
We are barely at the half-year mark of the Maison’s anniversary celebrations, and the line-up is already looking this impressive. I am in anticipation of what’s next, how about you?
Images courtesy of Vacheron Constantin, artwork by Curatedition. All rights reserved.
Related links:
Vacheron Constantin: Jumbo Love
Vacheron Constantin x Ora ïto: Light Work
Vacheron Constantin: Imperial Grandeur
Vacheron Constantin x Yiqing Yin Égérie: The Sense & Scentsibility Of Haute Horlogerie
Vacheron Constantin x Singapore Watch Club: A Classic, Renewed
