We go up close with four new references added to the Traditionnelle watch family in celebration of Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary
From the simple to the complicated, the Traditionnelle watch family has come to represent the mastery of time-honoured watchmaking know-how and traditions passed down over generations since the 18th century. Described by the Maison as the ultimate expression of the most demanding haute horlogerie traditions, it is with much anticipation that we await the anniversary editions of the Traditionnelle.
In case you are new to the Traditionnelle, this classic collection had its beginnings as part of the Patrimony collection. In the 2010s, the Traditionnelle line became a collection of its own, paying tribute to craftsmanship through the most rigorous watchmaking processes, with its very own character. Distinctively, the Traditionnelle pursues a contemporary look defined by signature stepped lugs, a fluted caseback and a slim bezel, balanced with a railway-type minutes track, faceted Dauphine-style hands, and applied gold baton-type hour-markers in true watchmaking tradition.
Like the Patrimony, the Traditionnelle is inspired by the centuries-deep heritage of Vacheron Constantin. We went up close with the anniversary editions of the Patrimony in our recent feature, going deep into the details of the extended line-up. With the history of the two watch collections in mind, and how the celebratory editions of both collections feature the iconic Maltese cross, bearing the symbolic ‘côte unique’ patterns on their movements and dials, we examine four new Traditionnelle references to uncover their individual characters.
Traditionnelle Moon Phase (Ref. 83570/000R-H060)
At first glance, what catches the eye on the new Traditionnelle Moon Phase (Ref. 83570/000R-H060) is the spectrum of elegant yet lively pinks that define the timepiece: from the diamond-set 18K 5N pink gold case, to the pink star-studded sky of the moon phase, and the pink railway-type minutes track with matching Mississippiensis alligator leather straps.
At 36mm, the 270-piece limited edition Traditionnelle Moon Phase sits comfortably on the wrist. The iridescence of the mother-of-pearl celebratory dial is mesmerising, especially in real life. The choice of dial material gives the watch a unique charm, differentiating it from the Patrimony’s celebratory dial we discussed in our earlier review.
Powered by the manufacture Calibre 1410 AS/270, the highlight of the Traditionnelle Moon Phase is without a doubt, the high-precision moon phase, also known as the ‘astronomical moon’. It tracks the exact lunar cycle, requiring adjustment only once every 122 years. The moon-phase complication is complemented by small seconds at 6 o’clock and a 38-hour power-reserve display.
Traditionnelle Manual-Winding (Ref. 1405T/000R-H061)
At a more petite 33mm, the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding (Ref. 1405T/000R-H061) with a 18K 5N pink gold diamond-set case focuses on its slender proportions at a mere thickness of 2.6mm. The slim silhouette houses the manufacture Calibre 1440/270 designed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin, offering a 42-hour power reserve.
A statement of elegance, the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding (Ref. 1405T/000R-H061) continues the colour narrative of the Traditionnelle Moon Phase. This time, the subtle pink tone of the mother-of-pearl dial is even more pronounced with the clean layout, making the Maltese cross-inspired motif created specially for the 270th anniversary the star of the show.
54 round-cut diamonds encircle the bespoke Maltese Cross-patterned dial, where characteristic Traditionnelle features prevail: a stepped round case and lugs, a slender bezel and a fluted caseback, railway-type minutes track, and Dauphine-type hour and minute hands. Elevated enough for special occasions, yet subtle enough for the everyday, this timepiece is an all-round charmer.
Traditionnelle Manual-Winding (Ref. 82172/000P-H062 & Ref. 82172/000R-H118)
The 38mm Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is a subtler take that continues to impress. Offered in 950 platinum or 18K 5N pink gold, limited to 370 pieces each, this timepiece comes fitted with grey Mississippiensis alligator leather straps that match the silver-toned celebratory dial.
The platinum version offers a harmonious tone-on-tone look that would sit well with most outfits, while the mild contrast of the pink gold paired with the grey straps adds a point of interest. Regardless of which one you end up with, this is a timepiece that speaks of pure grace.
Impressively, the manufacture Calibre 4400 AS/270 has a generous power reserve of 65 hours – that is close to 3 days. In line with the other anniversary editions, its manual-winding movement bears a discreet signature and specially designed “côte unique” finish. This calibre drives the small seconds at 6 o’clock on top of the hours and minutes.
The Traditionnelle collection pays tribute to traditional watchmaking’s technical and artistic heritage, with finely crafted cases and rigorously formal dials that testify to the expertise passed down from generation to generation by the Maison’s artisans and watchmakers.
Sandrine Donguy, Product & Innovation Director of Vacheron Constantin
Perfectly combining artistry and innovation, the new Traditionnelle timepieces continue to echo François Constantin’s now-famous words, first spoken back in 1819, “Do better if possible, and that is always possible.”
Images courtesy of Vacheron Constantin, artwork by Curatedition. All rights reserved.
Related links:
Vacheron Constantin: Poetic Simplicity
Vacheron Constantin: Jumbo Love
Vacheron Constantin x Ora ïto: Light Work
Vacheron Constantin: Imperial Grandeur
Vacheron Constantin x Yiqing Yin Égérie: The Sense & Scentsibility Of Haute Horlogerie
