Time is very telling, when it comes to icons, and craft.
Although the exact origins of the art of marquetry are not definitive, this artisanal craft transcending cultures and societal norms, of techniques reinvented and finessed over time, have creative boundaries immeasurable.
This art form – application of thin veneers to create decorative patterns and designs on structures – has grown beyond its ancient domain of form, and material applications. André-Charles Boulle, France’s most acclaimed cabinetmaker and preeminent artist in the field had undoubtedly inlaid the craft, pun intended, to thrive for generations that followed.
Marquetry is not new in the world of horology, if I may reference the lavish marquetry-adorned baroque longcase clocks from the 17th and 18th centuries. Fast forward, modern day wood marquetry-dial watches have also been created as exclusive high horology showings, or custom orders by watch maisons around the world. This application is a recent development nonetheless, with the first by Patek Philippe in 2008.
In 2012, Hermès presented the Arceau Marqueterie de Paille, in honour of the ancient art of straw marquetry. A first ever on a watch dial, it is an artisanal feat achieved and an un-deniable nod to the Hermès’ values core of craftsmanship.
The creation of objects, by skilled hands, translating function without compromise to aesthetics comes naturally to this French maison. Time, too, is an object, subject to interpretation. Aptly and timely for this year’s theme: À-vous-de-jouer! (Let’s Play!), Hermès presents two iconic animal motifs in colourful leather marquetry on the dial of the Arceau and Slim d’Hermès watches.
These true works of miniaturisation feature the chromatic signatures of the Maison, in the standout tonal Hermès reds, blues and greys that we know all too well.
Slim d’Hermès
On the signature ultra thin case of the Slim d’Hermès, sits a vivid new interpretation of the “Les Zèbres de Tanzanie” motif designed by animal artist Yves-Marie de Malleray in 2010.
Using marquetry, champlevé and miniature enamelling techniques, the tesserae composition on the dial is a miniature masterpiece to behold.
The hollowed dial is first filled with several layers of white enamel, hand-polished after the multiple firing processes, before the stripes are painted on with an extremely fine brush with enamel powders mixed with natural essences. Colourful stripes, composed of hand-fitted leather inlays, are then added to enhance the profile of the miniature-painted zebra.
Hermès Making of. Photo © David Marchon
It takes about 26 hours of enamelling and leather marquetry to complete the variegated composition and contrasting-surface motif of “Étoupe” and “Graphite” tones. Powered by the Hermès H1950 ultra-thin movement with its micro-rotor, this rare model of three white gold variations is issued in a 12-piece limited series.
Arceau Cavales
The perfectly symmetrical “Cavales” motif inspired by the “Samarcande” chess set created in 2009 on the dial centre of the Arceau Cavales model, is another display of superior craftsmanship.
The leather marquetry for the dial requires a meticulous approach. Each leather piece, of full grain calfskin, is first split to a thickness of a mere 0.5 mm before each element composing the motif is precisely cut to the patterned size and shape. Each element is then fitted on the dial piece by piece by the artisan to exacting perfection. The art of leather miniature work at its best.
This model is issued in two iconic colour combinations, the “Hermès Red” and the “Indigo Blue”. Each multi-hued composition requires six hours of patient assembly by the artisan, reminiscent of slim poppy petals for one model, and a stylised camouflage pattern for the other.
Hermès Making of. Photo © David Marchon
The micro-leatherwork dial is framed by a 41 mm-diameter white gold Arceau case, complete with the distinctive asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs and a matching colour smooth calfskin strap. Each model comprise a limited issue series of six pieces, powered by a mechanical self-winding Manufacture Hermès movement driving the hours, and minutes, hands.
These numbered watches are certainly rare, and will only be available by offer to special clients, or if you managed to place the privileged call to indicate your interest for the model bearing your favourite number, now.
Arceau Cavales
Limited, numbered edition of 6
Movement Type: Manufacture Hermès H1837, Mechanical self-winding, Swiss made
Diameter: 26 mm
Thickness: 3.7 mm
Power reserve: 50 hours
Number of jewels: 28
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour / 4Hz
Decoration: Mainplate with circular-grained and snailed finishing, bridges and oscillating weight satin-brushed and adorned with ‘sprinkling of Hs’, Hermès Paris engraving
Functions: Hours, minutes
Case Shape/Size: Round, 41 mm diameter
Case Material: White gold
Glass: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Water resistant: 3 bar
Dial: Leather marquetry. Motif inspired by the “Samarcande” chess set created in 2009
Buckle: White gold pin buckle
Strap: Hermès red calfskin, Indigo blue calf
Slim d’Hermès
Limited, numbered edition of 12
Movement Type: Manufacture Hermès H1950, Mechanical self-winding, Swiss made
Diameter: 30 mm
Thickness: 2.6 mm
Power reserve: 42 hours
Number of jewels: 29
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour / 3Hz
Decoration: ‘Sprinkling of Hs’
Functions: Hours, minutes
Specific feature: Micro-rotor, hand-chamfered bridges
Case Shape/Size: Round, 39.5 mm diameter
Case Material: White gold
Glass: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Water resistant: 3 bar
Dial: Champlevé, miniature enamel painting and leather marquetry on a white gold base. Motif inspired by the collection designed by Yves-Marie de Malleray in 2010: “Les Zèbres de Tanzanie”
Buckle: White gold pin buckle
Strap: Graphite alligator
All images courtesy of Hermès, all rights reserved.
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