The starting point of Dior Fall 2018 rediscovers the work of Claude Cahun (pseudonym of Lucy Schwob, 1894-1954), surrealist writer, photographer, actress, political activist and member of the French Resistance who was also openly homosexual. As a collection, it fully explores the interplay between masculine and feminine, while engaging in a complexity that allows women to express their personalities.
Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri on her collection proposition and inspiration:
“I wanted to take on the precision of the basics and materials that make up a man’s wardrobe. I sought to showcase the least explored part of Christian Dior’s legacy, an almost austere part, with the use of masculine fabrics and jackets, coats and shirts with rigorous lines. In the same way, I became interested in the work of Hedi Slimane with Petite Taille for Women, when he was Creative Director of Dior Homme.”
Think raw masculine fabrics used by Christian Dior during his time, juxtaposed with light weight transparency of tulle. The expression of femininity on poles of austerity with the application of collars; and sensuality through a spectrum of lengths and play on opacity. Colour palette of blacks, grey and powder-pink tulle completes the narrative.
Contrast is a constant, as House codes of volume, neckline, and length are reconstructed. The impeccable tailoring of the looks a clear nod to the Heritage of the House, and the styling congruent with Maria’s advocacy for self expression. As the gender lines fudges, feminine silhouettes and fabrics with their embellishments are layered, and proposed under masculine coats.
Since taking over creative rein in the House, Maria has presented a myriad of bag styles of different functionalities and aesthetics.
This Fall 2018, in a standout statement there is a capsule of key bags featuring an “ultra black” finish on the metal hardware. Chic, discrete, and in solidarity. Have a look.
Featured right, is the small “Diorama”bag in black studded Archicannage matte calfskin. Jewellery and chain in “ultra black ” finish metal.
All that glitters, in this collection otherwise, is gold.
The Lady Dior, and My Lady Dior pieces we love.
For those big on embroidery, the “Diorama” bag, embroidered with golden sequins and threads depicting clovers, with jewellery and chain in pale gold tone metal is a bag you want to consider.
A new bag also debuts this season. Presenting “Diordirection”, a flap bag in black shiny lambskin, featuring the signature CD clasp and detachable chain strap in aged gold tone metal.
The highly coveted “Dior Book Tote” bag from Spring-Summer took on a strong rendition for Fall, in Dior Oblique (no less) embossed black smooth calf skin. Or if you prefer, the version that reads surrealism, also in black smooth printed calfskin.
A dressier tote option, the Dior 21st tote bag in deep amaranth colour shiny lambskin, with aged gold tone metal, and adjustable and detachable strap.
All images courtesy of Dior.
Related links:
Chanel Métiers d’Art 2018: Paris-Hamburg Collection
