Bold, vibrant hues caught our eye at Watches and Wonders this year – here are a few timepieces that dialled in strong
Colours were abundant at this year’s Watches and Wonders, adorning dials, bezels, and straps in shades ranging from vibrant to subtle. Here’s our overview of the standout pieces debuted at the fair.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
While Patek Philippe typically stuck to classic dial colours, the brand has occasionally explored a range of hues in its timepieces. This year, the Calatrava takes centre stage with an elegant opaline rose-gilt dial complemented by anthracite white gold applied faceted “obus”-style hour markers. The term “obus” is derived from the French word for “shell” or “casing,” and in watchmaking, it describes markers that have a slightly raised or three-dimensional appearance.
The subtle tone used is beautifully accentuated by a rich chocolate brown alligator leather strap. Beyond its striking colour, the watch is powered by the manually wound 30-255 PS calibre, offering a 65-hour power reserve and a stop-seconds function that allows for precise time setting to the exact second.
A. Lange & Söhne ODYSSEUS Honeygold
The launch of the Odysseus in 2019 marked a significant milestone for A. Lange & Söhne, revolutionising the world of sporty-elegant watches. This year, we are introduced to a new iteration in honey gold, prompting the media to wonder what took them so long. Honey Gold is a proprietary alloy developed by A. Lange & Söhne, celebrated for its unique, warm hue that resembles honey, which is reflected in the watch’s design.
The timepiece features a honey-gold case with a diameter of 40.5 millimetres and a height of 11.1 millimetres, paired with a brown dial. A closer look reveals an unexpected pop of colour: a red number 60 that adds a vibrant accent to the peripheral minute scale, printed on the bevelled, gold-coloured flange ring. The result is a watch that radiates warmth, enveloping the entire look in style, sophistication, and comfort.
With the Tank à Guichets, Cartier playfully teases with whether the watch is an extension of the dial or simply an extension of the watch itself. When the model was first introduced in 1928, collectors likely wondered the same thing. To us, we see it as a dial with a central face crafted from brushed gold or platinum, offering an elegant reinterpretation.
The brushed gold stands out as it enhances the watch’s minimalist aesthetic featuring a vertical front with just two apertures to display the time: one for the hours and one for the minutes. This year’s edition features the crown positioned at 12 o’clock while the satin-finished case contrasts beautifully with the polished horizontal brancards.
It’s often said that it’s not easy being green, but this statement doesn’t apply to this striking watch designed by Gérald Genta in the 1970s. This year’s offering stands out with its case and integrated bracelet, featuring a detailed finishing that combines satin and polished surfaces. The bezel boasts a satin finish with polished outer edges, while the case back ring is fully polished. With a case size of 40 millimetres, the Ingenieur Automatic 40 offers exceptional ergonomics and wearability.
The integrated bracelet connects seamlessly to the case through middle links for a superb fit on the wrist, and the bezel is secured by five functional screws. A striking feature of the Ingenieur Automatic 40 is its green dial, which showcases a “Grid” structure composed of small lines and squares, giving it a 3-dimensional look.
A brand truly has clout when even someone like tennis legend Roger Federer inadvertently leaks an image of the watch before its official unveiling at Watches & Wonders 25. For a brief moment we caught a glance of the dial, but that did not do it justice. Up close we saw the feature in all its graphic glory, which has a geometric honeycomb motif developed by using advanced laser technology. The intense white dial boasts a satin finish, while the ice blue dial features a sunray finish, both achieved through traditional techniques. Notably, the seconds hand is designed with a counterweight that cleverly mimics the shape of the honeycomb cells.
In the versions equipped with a Chromalight display, the open numerals and index hour markers, enhanced with luminescent material that extends along their full length, offer the Land-Dweller optimal legibility in any setting.
Its sleek and bold design houses the innovative calibre 7135 movement, which is thinner than most of the brand’s movements and operates at a high frequency of 5 hertz, ensuring exceptional performance.
The deep hue of this timepiece captivates with the intensity of lapis lazuli, showcasing a blue guilloché pattern on the outer ring, a central lapis lazuli section, and a mother-of-pearl small seconds counter. This vibrant blue theme extends to a dark blue “Saffiano” calfskin leather strap.
Beyond its colour, this watch is remarkable due to its rich heritage. Decades ago, observatory trials played a crucial role in the watchmaking industry, as brands recognised the opportunity to enhance their reputation by submitting meticulously crafted movements for evaluation. ZENITH has participated in these trials since 1897, amassing an impressive total of 2,333 chronometry prizes.
Over its 160-year history, ZENITH has now created a 39mm platinum round case with a stepped bezel and curved lugs. The notched crown is adorned with the G.F.J. initials, in this context, “GFJ” stands for “Graham Family Jewel,” a designation often associated with limited editions or unique models within the ZENITH collection.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colours
The Reverso has undergone numerous transformations over the years, continually improving with each iteration. True to its name, the Reverso One Precious Colour is defined by vibrant hues and the use of exquisite materials. This model typically features a rectangular case with a decorative dial that may showcase artistic enamel work or gem settings, emphasising its versatility. The wearer can flip the case to reveal a blank side, which can be customized or left as an elegant, simple surface.
These feminine interpretations reaffirm Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of fine watchmaking and rare handcraft techniques, presenting jewels designed to be worn. Available in two colour variations, these novelties feature a richly adorned case that pays homage to the geometric style of Art Deco.
Combining haute horlogerie craftsmanship with a stylish aesthetic, the Reverso One Precious Colours has become a favorite among collectors and those who appreciate fine watchmaking infused with artistic flair.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Moon Phase
This year, Vacheron Constantin celebrates 270 years of crafting timepieces that showcase the brand’s technical mastery, artistic beauty, and commitment to innovation. This dedication to high watchmaking, handed down through generations since 1755, has culminated in the introduction of a stunning diamond-set pink gold case timepiece measuring 36 mm in diameter, the limited edition Traditionnelle Moon Phase, limited to 270 pieces.
Powered by the manufacture Calibre 1410 AS/270, this high-precision moon phase watch (also referred to as the ‘astronomical moon’) accurately tracks the lunar cycle, accumulating only one day of discrepancy over 122 years. The calibre features the 270th anniversary emblem and showcases the beautiful ‘côte unique’ finish.
As for colour? it comes in the form of a variety of vibrant straps, allowing you to choose one that suits the occasion or your mood on any given day.
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop
This collection brought a smile to our faces as H. Moser, known for its serious approach to watchmaking, has embraced a clever and playful spirit. In the style of Andy Warhol, the collection showcases a wide range of gemstones, including Burmese jade, turquoise, coral, pink opal, lapis lazuli, and lemon chrysoprase, all sourced from locations celebrated for their vibrant colours and purity.
Comprising 18 variations inspired by six stunning gemstones, each piece is reimagined in three watch complications: a Small Seconds model, a mesmerising Tourbillon, and an exceptional Minute Repeater Tourbillon, an exclusive one-of-a-kind masterpiece crafted in 5N red gold. With the Endeavour Pop collection, we are stepping into a vibrant new world that invites us on a chromatic journey, where unexpected colour combinations excite, and surprise.
Images courtesy of respective brands featured, artwork by Curatedition. All rights reserved.
Related links:
A. Lange & Söhne 1815: Living Tradition
IWC Schaffhausen: Ingenieur, Reinvented.
Vacheron Constantin: Poetic Simplicity
