Brilliant guilloché and blue agate bring out the the beauty of the Alhambra’s aesthetic codes
Striking blue agate re-enters the Alhambra universe at Van Cleef & Arpels after its debut in 1989. The translucent chalcedony used in the collection is chosen for its lustre, purity in material, and intensity in colour, then polished with care, taking into consideration the microcrystalline structure of the gemstone. Each piece is unique, with slight natural variations in opacity, exuding their individual charm, the beaded contour defining the border of the clover motif.
Paired with the guilloché motif, the result is complementary – the golden streaks gleam like sunbeams, adding texture to juxtapose the shine of the gemstone. The guilloché motif draws on a traditional aesthetic that the Maison uses since the 1910s to adorn watches, and then, the brand’s cases, powder boxes and Minaudières in the ’30s. This iconic motif was later introduced to the Alhambra collection on its 50th anniversary in 2018.
The combination of blue agate and guilloché is manifested in the Vintage Alhambra reversible ring, a versatile piece rooted in the brand’s tradition of convertible jewels. The two faces of the ring, surrounded by double-beaded contour, are defined by guilloché yellow gold adorned with a diamond on one side, and blue agate on the other. Three rows of cascading golden beads secure the central motif while the rotating mechanism remains consistently smooth.
Entirely assembled and adjusted by hand, the design considers wearability on top of aesthetics. The ring’s interior features a half-round band of gold that hugs the finger, while the weight of the close-set diamond on the guilloché motif is comfortable to wear without compromising the stone’s radiance.
When translated to the watch, the design stays true to the Sweet Alhambra aesthetic, achieved by fifteen successive steps adhering to strict standards: stringent selection of rough stones, material pairing, diligent gem-setting, and careful casing of the movement and dial. The form is dedicated to the tiniest of details – its prongs are rounded to match the golden beads, and skillfully folded down. The timepiece is complete with a final polish.
Images courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels, artwork by Curatedition. All rights reserved.
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