The First Luxury Watch

Advice to the 30-year-old me.

“Many things in life would catch your eye, but only a few would catch your heart, pursue these.” – Michael Nolan

Buying your first luxury watch is both an emotional and economical exercise. As Lord Nolan would have it, keeping the emotions in the heart and the finance in the pocket, to make the best/right choice, might be best; as this watch would likely be the content of many tales and stories that one would tell not only to one’s children but likely, grandchildren as well.

The curation, research and the searching for the right one is the exciting part, more so than the event itself; as the saying goes “the anticipation is better than the real event”.

It is imperative that your first luxury watch would last, and preferably outlive yourself and is passed on to the next generation (so that at least your child can tell your grandchild about granddaddy’s watch).

My questions to myself. Is it likely that I would use this watch to match and complement my daily get up/outfits/work clothes? Would I prefer a sporty watch or a classy dress watch (the latter is likely my choice, as a surgeon)? Would I want a timepiece that represents heritage, history and sophistication? Finally, for me, from a watch maker brand with a long heritage, definitely.

Realistically speaking, budget is a major consideration for any 30-year-old still accumulating one’s wealth and fortune; unless one is hibernating on a huge inheritance or had a recent windfall. The next few paragraphs reflect my personal forum internum, and is therefore by no means biblical nor gospel.

My choices (in no order of preference nor merit).

Jaeger–LeCoultre

The Jaeger–LeCoultre Reverso – introduced in 1931, inspired by the British Army playing polo in India at that time, designed to protect the watch face from trauma by the mallet or ball. The Reverso (in Latin meaning “I turn”), to me, is charming in its simple yet unassuming rotation. The model that calls out to me would be the Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds; I love the humble Arabic hour numerals, the vertically brushed guilloche center surrounded by a rail track minute circle with the small seconds at the 6 o’clock position.

What impresses me most – is the smooth and easy, yet stable, strong and firm sliding mechanism of its rotation into the cradle. Historically, this reversal mechanism dates back to 4 March 1931, where a patent was filed for “a watch capable of sliding in its support and being completely turned over”.

Breguet

If you were to talk about innovation and heritage, Breguet would be one of the highest on my list. It was Abraham-Louis Breguet’s fascination on accuracy, that made him the man who invented the tourbillion. For those who are not so aware, here’s a brief summary.

When Isaac Newton discovered gravity in 1687, little did most realise its effects on the timepiece. Abraham-Louis Breguet’s fascination on accuracy, noted the effects of gravity on the movement of the timepiece based on its position; didn’t help that (during that period) the timepiece seemed to be persistently in the vest-pocket of a gentleman’s suit vest. Breguet had a brilliant idea of creating the entire balance spring, lever, escape-wheel, and all the parts sensitive to gravity, inside a mobile carriage that rotates 360 degrees per minute, in order to negate the effects of gravity on the timepiece. Some call it a “whirlwind in a well”, rightfully so, as its pleasant stunning visual effects is likely more appreciated than its actual gravity negating effects (now that we mostly wear the timepiece on the wrist which is constantly moving, and no longer in the vest-pocket).

As a first luxury watch, of course, cost is also a consideration, I am drawn to the very old school yet Classique 5177, “grand feu” blue enamel dial, self-winding movement in an 18-carat gold, sapphire crystal 38mm case back, with an impressive 55 hour power reserve. The unique signature eccentric moon tip Breguet watch hands are simple yet strong, the Breguet-style numerals are pleasant to the eye while the “secret signature” Breguet logo above the 6 o’clock position makes it authentic.

A. Lange & Söhne

“The most precious thing you can give. Time”. A precious piece of German engineering at its best. In terms of perfection and prestige, A. Lange & Söhne is one of the best watch-makers in the world. The Saxonia range was introduced in 1994, and for 27 years, their models have evolved to be more elegant and attractive. Keeping to the tradition of fine craftsmanship, the A. Lange & Söhne watches are assembled twice, perfect meticulously polished, with the classical three-quarter base plate and the hand engraved balance cock.

As I do not have a big wrist, the sweet spot for my wrist would likely be a 38-40mm timepiece. The Saxonia 37mm white gold, grey dial, reference 216.027, calibre L941.1 appeals to me. I like its subtle, sombre yet strong and lively grey dial; with the baton indexes and the second hand sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position. It does not scream out “I am a Lange” but settles in quietly on the wrist with confidence, class and elegance.

Vacheron Constantin

Paying tribute to the glorious 1950’s – a time marked by easy to wear and elegantly designed watches – the FIFTYSIX^® collection draws reference from the iconic 6073 Maltese cross inspired model launched in 1956.

This watch design expresses and reinforces the creativity of Vacheron Constantin during the 1950s, where the 6073 model was highly distinctive, distinguished by its shape and notably its lugs, each representing a branch of the Maltese cross emblem of the Manufacture. The 6073 was equipped with a self-winding movement at a time when most of the other models were driven by manual winding mechanisms.

All the versions of the FIFTYSIX^® collection including those with complications are powered by a self-winding movement, with a new calibre for the three-hand variation, and a transparent caseback to demonstrate the fine movement, finishing and the new oscillating weight – a polished and satin-brushed 22 carats open worked rotor bearing a Maltese Cross applique and a frosted-snailed finish designed for this collection. The chapter ring consistent for all models, featuring alternate Arabic numerals and baton-type hour markers that complete the 1950s-2018 retro modern personality of the collection.

My personal choice would be the FIFTYSIX^®6073, self-winding, 40mm, day-date, 40 hour power reserve, stainless steel, 11.6mm thickness with the magnificent grey dial. I appreciate the sunburst grey dial, with the white gold Arabic even numerals alternating with the baton-shaped indicators. The day and date sub-dials are positioned at the 3 and 9 o’clock position while the power reserve indicator at the 6 o’clock position. Even more enticing is the sapphire glass open case back that displays the Hallmark of Geneva seal, and the 22k carat gold oscillating rotor with the polished Maltese cross. I love the matching dark grey alligator strap with a deployant buckle.

This watch is indeed “one of not many”.

IWC

Introduced in the late 1930s, the IWC Portugieser family would be my personal favourite from the watch maker. The first Portugieser is the legendary reference 325 with a simple dial and a second hand sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position.

My Achilles heel would be their newest Portugieser chronograph reference 3716, with a new in-house movement to replace the 3714. I adore its simple, humble, unassuming yet sophisticated look. The gold-on-silver dial would be top on my list in this Portugieser family.

Because of the thin bezel (or simply no bezel at all), the 41mm, stainless steel, 13mm thick, looks bigger than it actually is. What is most attractive (in my opinion) about this latest edition, compared to the previous 3714, is the sapphire crystal glass open case back, with the inscription “Probus Scafusia”, meaning good, solid craftsmanship from Schaffhausen. When you put this timepiece on your wrist, there is an almost immediate feel of stateliness upon yourself, with a sense of confidence and understated elegance; caution, you might not want to take it off.

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