The Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ series returns with the spotlight on Tropical Art Deco interpreted 3 ways, in a limited edition of 10 pieces each
Tropical Art Deco graces the iconic Reverso – its monoface models a natural canvas for artistic expression – in a limited edition series of three new designs. Characterised by the sleek lines of Streamline Modern architecture set against a backdrop of lush vegetation and vividly coloured flowers, these exquisite timepieces unite the artistic crafts of enamelling, gold-leaf paillonnage and gem-setting.
The three new designs come in a limited edition of 10 pieces each, the latest of the Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ series that first appeared in 2021, uniting Le Grande Maison’s codes of fine watchmaking, artistic crafts and High Jewellery.
On a background of white mother-of-pearl, the artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares™ atelier manifest three floral designs in a seamless wrap around the case-sides. From the back to the bezel, involving curves and angles that add a high degree of complexity, the process is completed with Grand Feu Champlevé enamelling – one of the oldest decorative enamelling techniques. Gold brackets define the four corners of the dial, creating a frame within which the numerals, in the signature Reverso One font, are set.
This complex dance of artistry and craftsmanship requires experience and technical skill. Each case, for example, requires at least ten firings, each one building on the intensity and depth of colour. Grand Feu enamelling is unpredictable: firing at temperatures up to 800 degrees Centigrade changes the chemistry of some pigments and only with many years of experience can an enameller predict whether the final colours will be as desired. With every firing, the risk of bubbling, cracking, burning or shrinking could occur.
Gem-setting, which can begin only after enamelling is completed, adds to the delicacy of the task. The gem-setter requires soft metal, but firing hardens the gold, so it’s crucial to find the ideal balance between the various processes. A tiny mistake could destroy countless hours of work.
Created by the hands of exceptionally talented artisans, every one of these miniature works of art contains subtle differences – their fine detailing and nuanced colour palettes the product of each artisan’s particular gestures, an expression of their passion, personality, and remarkable skill.
Birds of Paradise
A symbol of freedom and joy in the language of flowers, the Birds of Paradise edition captures colour and shape of the eponymous flower with gold-leaf paillonage and Grand Feu Champlevé enamelling. The design’s outline is first hollowed from the flat gold surface of the case-back, then tiny pieces of 24-carat gold leaf cut to the exact shape and size of sections of the flower are painstakingly fixed into place. This gold leaf underlay lends texture and exceptional brilliance to the orange and golden tones. The enameler then applies 19 different colours of enamel pigment to create nuances of tone and an impression of volume; up to nine layers of enamel are applied, requiring 60 hours of work.
Snow-set diamonds of nine different sizes form the background. This challenging technique requires 65 hours of freehand gem-setting to seamlessly cover the surface. Each Birds of Paradise timepiece holds approximately 331 diamonds totalling 1.64 carats. This intricate Métiers Rares™ masterpiece is fastened to the wrist with a strap in shiny green alligator leather, custom-dyed to perfectly match the green leaves.
Hibiscus Enamel
For the first time on a Métiers Rares™ Reverso One, the entire background is Grand Feu enamel, wrapping around the convex case-sides to frame the dial of the Hibiscus Enamel edition. Featuring the hibiscus, a quintessential tropical flower which symbolises beauty and wisdom, the colours of this timepiece recall a sun-kissed lagoon, and paired with a shiny blue alligator leather strap, custom-dyed to bring out the tones of the flowers.
Like the Birds of Paradise, the delicately drawn flowers and foliage are Grand Feu champlevé enamel – 12 colours of enamel applied in nine layers. In addition, the golden stamens are highlighted with tiny pieces of 24-carat gold leaf set beneath the enamel using the meticulous craft of paillonnage. The gadroons and lugs are set with a total of approximately 157 diamonds (1.25 carats) that enhance the beautiful tones of blue and green enamel. It takes the craftspeople 72 hours of dedication to complete each one of the 10 timepieces.
Hibiscus Diamonds
Another interpretation of the exotic hibiscus flower comes alive with enamelling, paillonnage and diamond-setting in the Hibiscus Diamonds edition. The exact shades and subtle graduation of this rendition took 12 trials of colour research to perfect.
Like the other timepieces in the series, the blue flowers were created in Grand Feu champlevé enamel, while the stamens of the flowers are highlighted with 24-carat gold leaf set beneath the enamel, against a background of snow-set diamonds. Accompanied by the grain-set diamonds on the gadroons and lugs, the Hibiscus Diamonds showcases a total of approximately 523 diamonds for 2.02 carats. The gem-setting work alone took 120 hours.
Precious jewels merit fine mechanisms; the new Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ timepieces are fitted with the hand-wound Calibre 846, a testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of technical watchmaking.
Images courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre, artwork by Curatedition. All rights reserved.
Related links:
Van Cleef & Arpels: The Line of Beauty
Jaeger-LeCoultre: Written in the Stars
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai ‘Amida Falls’: A Work of Art
