See the Portugieser in a new light with the new Automatic 42, Automatic 40 and Chronograph watches.
It’s hard to tell that the Portugieser was created more than 80 years ago. The case for its timelessness is clear: a modern case shape with clean, open dials featuring applied Arabic numerals, Feuille-type hands and a characteristic minutes scale reminiscent of railway tracks ensure perfect legibility. This oversized wristwatch would house a high-precision pocket watch movement with an accuracy that could rival marine chronometers. This original creation from the late 1930s has since evolved into a long line of Portugieser watches – classic, functional and elegant.
Among them is the Portugieser Automatic, defined by a balanced dial design with the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and the small seconds at 9 o’clock. Two new collections – the Portugieser Automatic 42 and the Portugieser Automatic 40 – join the line this year at Watches and Wonders Geneva. Visually lighter, the slimmer side profile comes from a carefully reworked case construction. There’s more to see with the double box-glass sapphire crystals: the IWC-manufactured movements from the 52000 and 82000 calibre families – both featuring Pellaton winding systems with ceramic components, and the new dials enrobed with 15 layers of transparent lacquer over new colours like Horizon Blue, Obsidian, Dune and Silver Moon.
The dials are exquisitely constructed. Before applying the colour, the brass bases are either treated with a sunburst finish or finely blasted. To achieve optical depth, 15 layers of lacquer are applied, then fine-ground and polished to a high gloss finish, while a special printing method adds to the three-dimensional effect. The subdials are milled into both the brass base and the lacquer layer, and individually hand mounted appliques add the finishing touch.
The Portugieser Automatic 42
A modern instrument dress watch, the new Portugieser Automatic 42 (Ref. IW5017) fully retains the DNA of the original Portugieser Automatic (Ref. IW50001) from the year 2000, while running on the IWC-manufactured 52011 calibre. The Pellaton winding system is reinforced with virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic components and builds up a power reserve of seven days (168 hours) in two barrels, while the escapement now offers enhanced protection against magnetic fields. It comes in two 18K gold versions and 4 stainless steel variations:
The Portugieser Automatic 40
The more compact Portugieser Automatic 40 (Ref. IW3584) was first introduced to the collection in 2020, and stands in direct lineage to the first Portugieser, Reference 325 from 1939. Containing the essence of the Portugiser line in a 40mm case, it features the same characteristic dial with the small seconds at 6 o’clock and no date window, and the IWC-manufactured 82200 calibre with a power reserve of 60 hours in the mainspring wound up by the automatic Pellaton winding system. Two versions of the Portugieser Automatic 40 are available:
The Portugieser Chronograph
Fans of the new colours Horizon Blue, Obsidian, and Dune, can also look forward to their appearance on three new Portugieser Chronograph models powered by the IWC-manufactured 69355 calibre, a robust mechanical chronograph movement. Readability is enhanced by the IWC-typical vertical arrangement of the sub-dials which places the stopped minutes directly at 12 o’clock, and the small seconds at 6 o’clock, while high-precision stop-time readings are made possible by the inner flange printed with a quarter-second scale. Sporty elegance defines the three Chronograph models:
Whether you’re new to the Portugieser, or looking to add another to your collection, the new additions promise to be well worth the time.
Images courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen, artwork by Curatedition. All rights reserved.
Related Links:
IWC Schaffhausen: Year of the Wood Dragon
IWC Schaffhausen: High Octane Horology
IWC Schaffhausen: In The Luxury Lane
