Bvlgari and MB&F reunite – the Serpenti is reimagined into a unique Horological Machine that breaks convention
The Serpenti was born into the Bvlgari universe in 1948, an emblem of eternal metamorphosis that has inspired countless extraordinary creations. This icon undergoes a complete transformation in collaboration with MB&F.
The aim was to have a totally different vision. The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bvlgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise.
Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Director of watchmaking creation at Bvlgari
The limited edition timepiece comes in three versions, each limited to 33 pieces. The blue version comes in a grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes, while the green edition features striking green eyes complemented by an 18K rose gold case, and the final version comes alive with red eyes contrasted with black PVD-coated stainless steel.
For a complete reinvention of the already iconic Serpenti, the design of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti went in a radically different direction. Automotive influences are observed: a case that resembles sleek automotive bodywork, “stepped” sapphire crystal shaped like the flaps on the rear window of a sports car, crowns reminiscent of car wheels. The technical challenges in such a design are apparent: The view of an automobile varies when you view it from different angles, yet each view is equally satisfying. This calls for a delicate balance, where each variable is carefully considered to ensure the view from all angles are covered.
At MB&F we specialise in ‘kinetic sculptures which give time’ so it was definitely our calling. Nevertheless, the biomorphic design of this watch created enormous challenges in terms of the case but also the movement.
Maximilian Büsser, Founder of MB&F
A co-creation that truly breaks horological convention, this limited edition timepiece is all about curves. The uniquely-shaped case is machined with 5-axis 3D mills and holds the five sapphire crystals – extremely complicated to make and equally challenging to fit into a curved case that also provides water resistance of 30 metres. The snake’s eyes and the multi-facetted rear section also had to be treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides while offering large openings on the movement. In Fabrizio’s words, it was “a pleasure to design, but technically very challenging to produce”.
Within the case is an equally complex movement conceived and developed in-house by MB&F, staying true to the goal of breaking traditional watchmaking conventions. The eyes of the Serpenti are brought to “life” as revolving hour and minute domes, the left dome making a full rotation in 12 hours and the right one in 60 minutes. Innovative milling processes ensure that the solid aluminium domes turn out as thin and lightweight as possible. Hand-applied Super-LumiNova illuminates the eyes when darkness falls.
The “brain” of this mechanical reptile’s brain is powered by the technically challenging, oversized 14mm flying balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws, beating at the traditional rate of 2.5Hz (18,000bph). A three-dimensional balance bridge bearing the two partners’ names holds it firmly in place. In the rear lugs of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti are separate crowns for winding and time-setting.
On the underside of the timepiece are the power reserve indicator and some of the other 310 components of the hand-finished movement. To uphold the artisanal manufacturing processes and hand-finish components, MB&F can only craft a very limited number of watches a year; in 2024, the number was just under 400. For a complex movement like the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti, the watchmakers at MB&F can only craft and assemble six to eight movements per month. As such, the sum of 99 pieces will take over a year to deliver.
Inside and out, the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti is a statement piece that fascinates, and one for enthusiasts and collectors alike.
Images courtesy of Bvlgari and MB&F, artwork by Curatedition. All rights reserved.
Related links:
MB&F: Time Taken to Tell a Tale
Bvlgari Serpenti Factory: Eternal Metamorphosis
