Breguet marks 250 years with a modern homage to its historic Souscription timepiece and its revolutionary roots
In celebration of its 250th anniversary, Swiss watchmaker Breguet has unveiled the Classique Souscription 2025, a contemporary wristwatch that revives one of founder Abraham-Louis Breguet’s most iconic and democratising creations.
First devised in the late 18th century, the original “Souscription” watch allowed clients to pre-order and pay a quarter upfront as a deposit, enabling series production — an innovation in both horology and business. The original timepiece was a simplified, single-hand watch aimed at a broader market, and Breguet produced around 700 of these pocket watches over 30 years.
Unveiled in Paris, where Breguet first established his workshop in 1775, the new model pays tribute to that pioneering spirit. It features a grand feu white enamel dial with a single blued-steel Breguet hand, recalling the minimalist purity of its ancestor.
The dial also incorporates historically faithful touches — Breguet numerals, a “chemin de fer” minute track, and a subtle secret signature engraved with a diamond-point pantograph.
The 40mm case is forged in “Breguet gold,” a newly developed alloy combining gold, silver, copper and palladium. This subtly warm pink metal reflects the 18th-century alloys Breguet once used, while promising modern-day resilience. The case’s design respects the past but adapts to the present, with curved ergonomic lugs and a brushed case middle replacing traditional fluting.
Inside beats the new VS00 calibre, visible through a domed sapphire caseback. Decorated with a guilloché pattern dubbed “Quai de l’Horloge,” it reflects the curves of Paris’s Île de la Cité — Breguet’s historical home.
The movement offers a four-day power reserve and includes a Nivachron™ balance spring for greater resistance to magnetic fields and shocks.
In resurrecting the Souscription, Breguet reaffirms its legacy not only as a master of mechanical craftsmanship, but also as a visionary brand willing to break with convention — yesterday, today, and into the future.
Images courtesy of Breguet, artwork by Curatedition. All rights reserved.
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