See the new 23mm Royal Oak Mini and the [RE]Master02 Selfwinding asymmetrical watch as you journey through the Manufacture’s horological universe in an exhibition in Milan
If you’re in Milan this summer, you’re in for a treat. See the newly released [RE]Master02 Selfwinding and Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold models alongside a selection of Audemars Piguet’s heritage and contemporary timepieces in a public exhibition ‘Shaping Materials’. This immersive journey through the Swiss Manufacture’s horological universe tells the stories behind the daring and innovative spirit driving generations of watchmakers and craftspeople to push new ideas forward and shape Audemars Piguet.
Held till 16 June 2024 at Portrait Milano in the heart of Milan, ‘Shaping Materials’ is about Audemars Piguet’s relentless quest for creative techniques and designs, starting with materials and how they are transformed into watch components before being finished by skilled artisans. Besides working with precious metals, such as gold and platinum, other materials, such as steel, titanium, carbon and ceramic, have been made precious through the meticulous work of craftspeople. Divided into five rooms, the exhibition also highlights how the brand has forged its own path in terms of design, often drawing inspiration from the wider cultural world, and architectural and artistic movements for more than a century.
More details on the exhibition are available at the end of the article, but here’s a closer look at the two new releases.
Royal Oak Mini
The new Royal Oak Mini in 18K yellow, pink or white gold, combines the powerful aesthetic codes of the original Royal Oak designed by Gérald Genta in 1972, with the delicacy and sophistication of Frosted Gold for a unique, shimmering monochrome aesthetic.
Building on the Manufacture’s rich history of miniature and jewellery watches, this new 23mm miniature model is a modern interpretation of the 20mm Mini Royal Oak from 1997. Powered by Calibre 2730, one of the best in class quartz movements for watches of this size, it offers a battery life of over seven years. By simply pulling on the crown, the wearer can also temporarily deactivate the battery.
The visual impact of the Frosted Gold finish, which makes the Royal Oak Mini work as both timepiece and jewellery, cannot be overstated. Achieved by making tiny indentations on the gold surface with a diamond-tipped tool, the diamond-dust effect is inspired by an ancient Florentine jewellery technique, revisited by jewellery designer Carolina Bucci, and adapted by Audemars Piguet artisans in 2016 to adorn the Manufacture’s timepieces.
This blurring of the line between jewellery and watches goes back to 1972: Gérald Genta, a trained jeweller, created the Royal Oak with a faceted case that played with light like the diamond, and an elaborate integrated bracelet that brings to mind the metal bracelets adorning women’s timepieces since the 19th century.
The jewellery aesthetic of these dainty creations continues on the dial. The dial is luminous, complemented by faceted gold hour-markers matching the case and filled with luminescent material for optimum visibility in the dark, while the tone-on-tone Petite Tapisserie enhances the play of light created by the Frosted Gold case and bracelet. The Audemars Piguet signature at 12 o’clock is printed in black on a cartouche to enhance legibility, while the date indication and seconds scale have been omitted to enhance both legibility and the refinement of the guilloché dial.
Since the 19th century, Audemars Piguet has created small watches that pushed the boundaries of miniaturisation, gem-setting and aesthetic refinement. From timeless classics and jewellery pieces to avant-garde artistic creations, these timepieces reflect the technical and aesthetic challenges of their respective eras.
[RE]Master02 Selfwinding
Limited to 250 pieces, the new [RE]Master02 Selfwinding features an asymmetrical 41mm rectangular case in the new 18K sand gold alloy with a tone that oscillates between white and pink gold. The caseback, also crafted in sand gold, is engraved with “Limited Edition” and harmoniously echoes the dedicated asymmetrical oscillating weight in matching tones. The sand gold alloy is also used for the hour and minute hands, and the “Audemars Piguet” signature at 3 o’clock. The satin finish gives it a matte “raw” look that contrasts with the polished contours of the dial.
The [RE]Master02 Selfwinding is a clever play on shape, light and texture. The “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” parted dial is divided into twelve different triangles in a linear satin finish, separated by galvanised sand-gold-toned partitions that meet at the centre. The omission of hour-markers and date indication keeps the attention on the geometric shapes and linear satin finish, while the asymmetry is emphasised by the sapphire crystal with a 15.8° bevel. Diagonals that cross the dial facilitate time-reading.
The vintage aesthetic is paired with cutting-edge performance in the form of the Calibre 7129, an extra-thin hour and minute movement based on the Calibre 7121 launched in 2022 on Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin models. Just 2.8mm in thickness, it produces more energy thanks to its new construction and larger barrel, enabling the mechanism to achieve greater precision for a longer time. The oscillating weight is mounted on ball bearings and equipped with two reversers to ensure bidirectional winding. Inertia blocks are also present in the thickness of the balance wheel to prevent aerodynamic friction from slowing it down.
In Haute Horlogerie tradition, the Calibre 7129 features refined decorations such as Côtes de Genève, circular satin, snailing, sunray brushing, circular graining and polished angles, all of which can be admired through the sapphire caseback.
Like its predecessor, the [RE]Master01, launched in 2020 as a reinterpretation of a 1943 chronograph, this new release is a tribute to an asymmetrical watch created by the Manufacture in 1960 (Model 5159BA). With this new model, [RE]Master establishes itself as a collection in its own right, offering contemporary interpretations of timepieces that defined their era.
What: Audemars Piguet ‘Shaping Materials’ Exhibition
When: 3 – 16 June 2024, 12pm – 8pm
Where: Piazza del Quadrilatero, Hotel Portrait, Corso Venezia, 11, 20121 Milano
How: Free admission. Register here for entry
Images courtesy of Audemars Piguet. All rights reserved.
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