Mary Katrantzou’s debut collection for Bvlgari is an elegant play on the sinuous curves of ancient Roman motifs
In a bold new chapter for Bvlgari, Greek fashion designer Mary Katrantzou has unveiled her debut collection as Creative Director of Leather Goods and Accessories, introducing the ‘Calla’ motif.
Drawing on the grandeur of Rome’s ancient public bath Terme di Caracalla, Katrantzou transforms Bvlgari’s iconic codes with a fresh, contemporary vision. The motif, inspired by the fan-shaped mosaics discovered in the third-century Roman baths, echoes the luxurious curves and delicate elegance of the calla lily, ginkgo leaf, and the brand’s signature “Divas’ Dream” collection.
At the heart of this collection is the fusion of historical Roman craftsmanship with Bvlgari’s heritage of high jewellery design. Katrantzou translates these influences into intricate patterns, particularly through the matelassé and pavé crystal techniques featured on the ‘Serpenti Forever’ bags, which pay homage to Bvlgari’s famous Serpenti emblem.
The standout ‘Serpenti Sugarloaf’ shoulder bag showcases the Maison’s artisanal mastery, its form inspired by the rare high-domed variant of cabochon-cut gems Bvlgari is renowned for. The line detail of the matelassé on the padded-volume nappa leather shoulder bag are precision engineered and crafted by specialist Bvlgari artisans in the brand’s atelier in Florence.
Katrantzou also debuts the ‘Serpentine Duo’ tote, an architectural design with a metal double-headed serpent handle that evokes the house’s jewellery roots with its trapèze shape that brings to mind the faceted cut of precious gems. The bag features a forged metal handle with a double Serpenti head on each side: its sinuous form and intricately engraved detail is Bvlgari’s jewellery savoir-faire being translated to leather goods. There’s a leather version for everyday use and a more elaborate, crystal-embellished one for evening wear.
Other key pieces include the dome-shaped ‘Marquise’ top-handle bag, with a shape influenced by gem facets, and the ‘Ginkgo’ clutch, which distills the ‘Calla’ motif into an elegant minimalist form.
This collection is more than just an aesthetic endeavour; it represents a deeper connection to Bvlgari’s Roman heritage and Katrantzou’s ability to bridge ancient and modern design.
A distinct blend of femininity, craftsmanship, and cultural resonance, The ‘Calla’ collection makes a fitting tribute to Bvlgari’s legacy as one of the world’s most prestigious luxury houses.
Images courtesy of Bvlgari, artwork by Curatedition. All rights reserved.
Related links:
Bvlgari Serpenti Factory: Eternal Metamorphosis
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