Decked in black ceramic, Roger Dubui’s two new masterpieces are all they are hyped up to be.
Roger Dubuis has never been one to shy away from challenges. This time, the Maison takes us into the Future of Hyper Horology with the radiant, all-black ceramic editions of the Excalibur Double Tourbillon and Excalibur Monobalancier, its first two masterpieces crafted in all-black ceramic that’s known to be exceptionally challenging to master. Undeterred, the Maison’s innovative spirit and craftsmanship led the way in overcoming these hurdles. The end result – strikingly beautiful timepieces that are at once durable, expressive and destined to be classics.
Designed for adventures big and small, Roger Dubuis’ ceramic is solidly black throughout and four times harder than stainless steel. Not only is the watch durable, it doesn’t compromise on style. The Maison was determined to deliver on its signature shape, even though it meant an overhaul of the entire manufacturing process due to the challenges posed with using all-black ceramic. Such an undertaking is almost unheard of in the world of watchmaking, where ceramic cases are usually designed according to the material’s characteristics.
The transformative grinding itself takes ten times as long as any other of its pieces. The process starts with a blend of powders comprising Zirconia and 3% stabilising Yttrium that results in its hyper-resistant solidity. Skilful engineers then transform these powders first into a blank and then through a machining process six times longer than the standard. The subsequent sintering and heating processes then take up to 2 days to complete. Finally, this immensely hard material is finished by hand as the material demands extreme craftsmanship and meticulous care to conquer. The finished case – a display of both aesthetic and technical prowess – is hyper-resistant to daily scratches and sports the radiantly intense black finish that does not tarnish over time.
The Excalibur Double Tourbillon in Radiant Black Ceramic
Roger Dubuis’ commitment to design the future of Hyper Horology™ resulted in the evolution of the enhanced Excalibur Double Tourbillon in 2021, and now presented in a radiant black ceramic 45mm case that houses the RD108 calibre and its two signature tourbillons. Both tourbillons are rebuilt with lighter materials and an enhanced differential to maximise the transmission of energy, optimising the power reserve to 72 hours – perfect for leaving it off over the weekend.
Visually, the watch is stunning; the calibre’s sense of transparency and 3D depth is emphasized by the Roger Dubuis star floating freely above the barrel, while clean lines give the impression of a thinner look and feel. Paired with a black calf-leather strap featuring the versatile Quick Release System, this limited edition of 28 pieces is truly deserving of the Poinçon de Geneve – one of the most demanding signatures in fine watchmaking.
The Excalibur Monobalancier in Radiant Black Ceramic
Roger Dubuis introduced the enhanced Excalibur Monobalancier, completed with a series of mechanical and aesthetic improvements Watches & Wonders 2022 as a prelude the new radiant black ceramic version.
The watch is a dream come true for any true Hyper Horology™ aficionado; from the escapement wheel to the anchor, the micro-rotor to the balance wheel inertia and pallet-stones. The visionary engineers and watchmakers multiplied its technical enhancements in order to push the performance of the automatic RD 720SQ calibre to its maximum, increasing its power reserve to an impressive 72 hours.
The 42mm timepiece exudes an air of modernity with its distinctive lines, fluted bezel, and sharp notches, while the signature star is reshaped to levitate freely above the barrel. This contemporary style is further amplified by its sand blasted, satin brushed surfaces, and polished angles, all of which are certified by the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. Paired with an embossed black calf-leather strap that uses a patented Quick Release System, the watch is a pleasure to wear and a breeze to match with any outfit.
Images courtesy of Roger Dubuis, artwork by Curatedition. All rights reserved.