Explore the next chapter of Cartier’s high jewellery collection Le Voyage Recommencé as it reveals the endless possibilities of the Maison’s boundless creativity.
There’s something about uncovering new territory that excites and inspires. Guided by an endless search for beauty, and a bold approach to jewellery design, Maison Cartier continues to break new ground with the latest additions to their Le Voyage Recommencé high jewellery collection. These creations reveal a fresh, bold approach to the signature style of Cartier. Eye and mind-opening, each piece embodies the limitless creativity of the Maison’s artisans and designers.
India’s rich culture and colours imbue the Dohara necklace. A dazzling array of diamonds, white gold and sculpted rock crystal shine bright on one side of the necklace, complemented by a burst of red, green and blue lacquer elements on the other side, reflecting an emblematic Cartier colour combination. The Dohara’s reversible structure and interplay of colour and motifs are inspired by traditional Mughal jewellery, and took six different professions from the high jewellery workshops more than a year to create.
Taking centrestage are three oval brilliant-cut diamonds – each pavilion is set in a translucent rock crystal motif that harmonises the volume at the back and leaves the diamonds visible. This lapidary work requires extreme precision, and is repeated on the rock crystal drops around the edge of the necklace. Reminiscent of the boteh motif, an inseparable part of the Indian repertoire, the design stays true to its inspiration through and through. The back of each diamond pavé motif is lacquered in red, green or blue and the finished creation gently drapes lusciously over the skin.
A sovereign piece of majestic allure, the Bailong brooch spotlights the dragon, a faithful mythical creature of the Cartier bestiary: from the crest to the scales and slender limbs, the featured dragon is charged with an intense energy reinforced by the realism of the design. A yellow pear-cut diamond adds to the fiery sparkle of its eye, capturing the dragon’s role as both protector and predator, as it dominates a 30.11-carat octagonal tourmaline while holding a yellow diamond in its clutches. Portraying this liveliness is a highly demanding exercise that requires balancing the curved lines of the upper portion of the brooch, and the geometric diamond motifs of the lower composition.
Beyond exploring the possibilities that lie in rich cultures and mythical creatures, Cartier also explores the beauty of the plant world. Reminiscent of pinecones and the wisteria, the Pineas necklace is an abstract, organic venture into the vivacity of nature. Two voluminous and slightly asymmetrical vines made of pavé rose gold scales are arranged in staggered, overlapping rows, culminating in a waterfall of singularly cut gems. The vines are united by an emerald bead, and draping down are two yellow briolette-cut diamonds weighing a total of 14.59 carats and two hexagonal Colombian emeralds weighing 25.84 carats at the end of the two strands that can be detached and fitted into earrings.
Playing with geometry and contrast, the Miraggio necklace uses optical effects and volume design to achieve visual impact. On either side of a line of Ceylon sapphires are sapphire and emerald motifs that form a symmetrical grid punctuated by graphic onyx details that produce an overall effect that underlies a chromatic signature of the Maison – the “peacock motif” by Louis Cartier.
To accomplish this creation, the Maison’s gem experts first sourced a group of sapphires, remarkable for their rare harmony of colour and shape. Eighteen sapphires and thirty-six emeralds are then cut into triangles by the Maison lapidaries and then set one by one in motifs assembled on several levels, in a setting designed to emphasise the aesthetics of a necklace that slips effortlessly over the skin.
Shapes, volumes and lines build up structures of light with a play on proportions. This focus comes through in the Eximis ring. A 4.15 carat yellow-brown Fancy diamond, with an original diamond cut, is the centrepiece around which triangular white diamonds form a fractal structure, split into symmetrical fragments. The mirror polish of the metal emphasises the void like a graphic line, adding depth and a sense of levitation around the stone, while alternating facets in a staggered pattern facilitate the flow of light, enhancing the brilliance of this rare stone.
We explore so many territories to push the boundaries of creation and discover new horizons. Like a journey that is repeated over and over again, continually drawing on the inexhaustible sources of Cartier inspiration.
Jacqueline Karachi, Director of High Jewellery Creation at Cartier
Images courtesy of Cartier, artwork by Curatedition. All rights reserved.