Bulgari: The Rise of the Peacock

It takes the simplest of tools: a magnifying glass, tweezers, knife and scissors, paired with the most dextrous of hands to complete the twelve spectacularly hued feathers that “bloom” on the dial of the Divas’ Dream Peacock Feather Marquetry. Inlaid using a technique originating in Antiquity, these feathers that are known as ‘hairs,’ are naturally shed by the bird and then meticulously selected for their extraordinary colours and textures.

This craft was known to be applied in Renaissance Italy, and was rediscovered by Bulgari in the 1970s. Each feather passes through an antique brass steam machine to reveal its natural lustre, then cut, assembled, glued and cut to compose a mosaic shimmering with silky reflections. The entire process takes several days to complete.

An ode to the naturally luxurious plumage of the blue peacock, their ‘eyes’ a symbol of wisdom, the Divas’ Dream Peacock Feather Marquetry is a work of art. The intricate dial comes with gilded hour and minute hands in an elegant 33mm case in 18K rose gold. The bezel, also in 18K rose gold, features 48 round brilliant-cut diamonds and fan-shaped links set with 28 round brilliant-cut diamonds while the 18K rose gold crown is set with a cabochon-cut sapphire. Paired with the green alligator strap with a rose gold pin buckle set with diamonds, the quartz powered watch is a resplendent beauty.

Against a delicate backdrop of white mother-of-pearl sits the regal silhouette of a gold and mother-of-pearl peacock with a tuft and a rose gold beak, its fan-shaped feathers sweeping across the lower dial. The magnificent creature in the Divas’ Dream Peacock Mother-of-Pearl Marquetry lifts its head proudly, surrounded by engraved rays that symbolise wealth, protection, and wisdom, and its theatrical tail evoking a star-studded sky.

Like a true diva, the mother-of-pearl marquetry requires extreme finesse to complete due to its fragility. The mother-of-pearl elements are painted on the reverse to achieve the varying shades of blue, then intricately cut and set into recesses carved directly into the dial. Flush inlays outlined in rose gold accentuate the organic iridescence of mother-of-pearl, this most precious gift from the sea.

Three-dimensional marquetry inspired by the mosaics of the Roman Baths of Caracalla brings the peacock to life on the aventurine dial of the Divas’ Dream Peacock Precious Marquetry Jumping Hours and Retrograde Minute, an exceptional timepiece that merges the fine artistry of Bulgari’s horological and jewellery craftsmanship. The sapphire dome that floats above the precious interpretation of the peacock, for instance, is inspired by the cabochon cut – a Bulgari hallmark since the 1950s.

The Bird of Juno spreads its tail fan wide, displaying the intricate detail of its bejewelled plumage. Each component is delicately curved to nestle within the layered structure: rose gold, snow-set diamonds, aventurine, and malachite embellish this magnificent figure. A stone that symbolises protection against misfortune in ancient Rome, malachite, with its intense green, especially recalls the peacock’s natural regal attire. Combined with the use of aventurine glass, named after how it was created – ‘per avventura’ which means ‘by chance’ – in 14th century Murano, the timepiece is yet another testament to Italian mastery of rare artisanal skills.