Temperatures are rising for the brand new season, thanks to plunging necklines and short hemlines (this includes bicycle shorts — really!).
Muted hues are ubiquitous and suggest a feeling of lightness during the spring seasons but the sensible shade to sport this season, which offers chic, as well as freshness is beige. Riccardo Tisci’s debut at Burberry saw the ex-Givenchy designer up the glamorous ante of the English house’s renowned utilitarian trench coats (model Kendall Jenner wore a style trimmed with gold chains and paired with a matchy-matchy coloured pantsuit — posh), while elsewhere at Max Mara and Chanel, it was the feminine resort-inspired styles that paid homage to what is otherwise known as both of these maison’s iconic colour codes.
Who would have thought that bicycle shorts could be considered high fashion? Then again, we’ve already seen the likes of these aerodynamic bottoms, worn by Instagram darlings from the Kardashian to “It” model Bella Hadid as early as last summer. A tailored jacket or structured top would be the best accomplice in serving up polish for these nouveau fashionable shorts, but face it, the best accessory yet, for acing these skin-tight babies would be none other than a pair of well-toned gams.
One of the season’s more stark yet feminine details were pleats. Seen on diaphanous skirts and dresses from Fendi to Valentino and Givenchy, it was the latter French label’s creative director, Clare Waight Keller, who notably served up the season’s best pleated numbers by way of wearable day-to-night dress that also boasted a beautifully inspired Art Deco-style. American label Tome, also showed an enduring take on pleating details for their day-time tent dresses, too. Spliced with touches of colour-blocking panels, the finish was sporty, modern and cool.
No longer the uniform of The Grateful Dead groupies, tie-dye has reached a new level of sartorial refinement, thanks to designers Miuccia Prada and Maria Grazia Chiuri (Dior). Both women showed this hippie-inspired print with kaleidoscopic exuberance, combining the painterly patterns with touches of floral imageries that looked like abstract mandala motifs, too. And then, there was Stella McCartney who showed the sweet and saccharine side of this hallucinogenic-inspired design, using candy floss colours to fashion sporty babydoll dresses and baggy tees.
There’s simply no shortage on tassels and fringe this season. Plumes were aplenty and trimmed hemlines from Loewe to Rochas and Valentino, while at Marc Jacobs and Céline they were seen to enhance a beautiful and feathery silhouette/bulk. Alessandro Michele at Gucci opted for OTT glitz (but, of course!) and added rhinestones and sparkly fabrics into his fancy magpie mix, while at Jacquemus, JW Anderson and Missoni, the mood was tamed and streamlined, boasting a touch of craft rather than feather extravaganza.
Like it or not, the Eighties will never go away. This season, one of the era’s most fond memories, namely acid wash denim, first made its appearance at New York Fashion Week and then gradually hit high on the trend charts in both Milan and Paris, showing from Alberta Ferretti to Missoni, Isabel Marant Dior, Miu Miu, Balmain and more. Avoid looking dated when rocking these paled-out pieces by keeping hair and makeup to a bare minimum, otherwise, stick to darker tone denims for a safe bet.
7. Bows vs Rosettes
Consider these babies the season’s outfit toppers, much like the icing on beautifully baked cakes. At Céline, newly appointed creative director Hedi Slimane opened the show with a micromini polka-dot dress, which was festooned with a ginormous bow that was part off-shoulder neckline, part balloon sleeves. Then at Valentino, similar voluminous silhouettes saw bows complete the finishing touch. Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada (for Miu Miu) went the extra mile, combining the two details in a single look. As the saying goes: “Too much is never enough.”
8. Colourful Prints
Eye-catching prints have the unique ability in providing an outfit its lasting impression. With this knowledge in hand, designers were seen pushing boundaries by clashing prints in a single ensemble, or more bravely, combining different prints on a single pieces of fabrics. Francesco Risso at Manrni showed both alternatives and also offered an additional layer of dressmaking prowess in the form of drapery, which complemented, as well as highlighted his collection’s artful motifs. Over at Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière dabbled with both floral and abstract prints, lending his love for futuristic fashion a spunky yet feminine finish.