Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski paints yet another stylish canvas for the Maison of colours this Spring-Summer. In an albeit muted palette, but certainly does not detract from the statement that she has made for Hermès for years. She kept the collection simple, modern and elegant, showcasing the Maison’s expert tailoring through clever application of graphics and geometric prints.
The collection palette carried warm, cool, light and dark tones, chosen to evoke the contrasts of nature. In the extensive Hermès rainbow of colours, we find these offerings: black, blue black, wet blue, ultraviolet, pink granite, Hermès red, thyme green, and ficelle.
The opening look summarised the graphic narrative. A Scottish plaid is cut and constructed in geometric symmetry, as a cape over a simple shirt and shorts of tone-on-tone greens and varying textures. If it isn’t clear enough, impeccably tailored jackets and suits in tartan, apron silhouette dresses and ensembles of varying checker prints took that conversation further.
Fans of the Grand Manège scarf designed by Henri d’Origny will pick up the applications of this historical print (first issued in 1990) liberally peppered throughout the collection: lacquered linen canvas decorated with interwoven bridles and hardware, and abstract floral imprints on silk twill, calligraphy t-shirts, guipure jersey and denim.
And then there are the definitive geometric prints, with apron construction details. Worn slim, waist defined, add vented culottes and wide trousers for flow and movement.
Key words for the collection: minimalist, feminine, and slim.
The House has dressed the discrete Hermès ladies effortlessly, and this collection will continue to appeal to these self-assured and stylish ladies who appreciate the mix-and-match propositions that are offered.
- The geometric narrative is reinforced through chic tailoring of calf leather in latticework on the jacket, blouson or skirt.
- Zipped sides and a belted waist for accentuation.
- The apron silhouette allows for the projection of movement, wrapped and folded high at the waist. Culottes and wide trousers are vented for ease of stride.
- Ultra-light textiles imbue outerwear with a crisp touch, as mercerized poplin and madras linen trench coats are accented with pronounced saddlery stitching and stamped leather window buttons.
- Transparency and overlay create trompe l’œil details, as layered checks pop in silk organza and smocked taffeta.
Open slotted sandals featuring either a brushed steel frame heel or a moulded sole are worn throughout the collection. Stand-outs include the Ficelle-coloured calf leather, pink granite crocs, sesame lizard fabrications.
Sculptural necklaces and earrings featured blown-glass drops and bulbs strung with coloured cord.
Spotted: A light summer bucket bag is crocheted in dense two-tone silk with an adjustable raw-cut belt strap, for a sinuous fusion of leather and silk.
Reproportioned: We had a sneak peek at the Hermès 2002 bag in the Resort collection. On the Spring runway, this bag’s proportions are reworked from the previous resort offering, made bigger for purpose of function and relevance if I may extrapolate. Fabrication options include toile H printed canvas, checked gabardine, matte crocodile, and box calf leather finished with palladium clasps.
No Birkin nor Kelly sighting this time, so your quota-bag wishlist is good to remain status quo, until the next collection.
All images courtesy of Hermès.