A step by step guide to how the tweed we love, is made.
To all Chanel tweed lovers, how well do you know your tweed?
Plain tweed: the most basic tweed used by Chanel, is made from a plain or twill weave of a single colour or yarn.
Fantasy tweed: tweed made of several yarns and/or different colours.
Some of the most unique and fantasy tweeds of Chanel that we see today, are made in the Maison Lesage, one of Chanel’s eight esteemed savoir-faire ateliers.
Do you know how it’s made? Join us on this fantasy tweed journey.
After Karl Lagerfeld provides the theme and inspiration for each collection, the House of Lesage’s ateliers in Pantin, on the banks of the Ourcq Canal, just outside Paris, will commence their creation of tweed samples.
The Making Of
The weaver interprets Lagerfeld’s vision, and selects different threads to create a tweed to the theme.
Every new tweed created by Lesage is unique, and created using different possible techniques. For example: the chosen tweed threads can be strung together to create new and interesting materials; or fabrics (and in this case denim) can be cut up, or ripped into strips to be used as weaving threads.
The warp threads are then strung into a “comb” using a “crochet”.
After the threads are warped, the weft threads of the tweed are woven through the warp threads. To achieve this, the weaver operates the pedals of the loom to move the warp threads and the weft threads in accordance to create the intended effect of the tweed.
Between every passage, the weft threads are “packed” down to give “body” to the fabric.
The tweed sample is removed from the loom on completion.
And it is not finished because the tweed sample can be further enhanced.
- Scissors may be used to fray or tear the tweed;
- tulle, or a braid may be introduced;
- threads and feathers may be applied; or
- the tweed may be embroidered.
Only at this stage, are the tweed samples ready to be sent to the Chanel Studio for review by Lagerfeld.
Trivia: The Maison Lesage team would generate about 100 new samples for each haute couture collection, boosting their already 40,000 samples’ strong record created since 1958. The Maison also holds an impressive inventory of over 60 tons of vintage and modern day crystals and beading supplies.
Which collection do you think these tweeds are from? Check out the answers here.
From tweed to fantasy tweed, this iconic weave expression is limitless.
All images courtesy of Chanel