Tweed is one of Gabrielle Chanel’s favourite fabrics, and a key icon of the House today.
Mademoiselle Chanel fell in love with the comfortable yet sophisticated material after she borrowed sportswear from her beau, the Duke of Westminster. She then became the first person to design dresses in this supple and rugged material in 1924; the iconic tweed produced on commission from a Scottish factory. The colors she chose were based on what inspired her – she would bring back leaves, and bits of soil – during her trips to the Scottish Countryside.
Left: Chanel and Duke of Westminster in 1928. Right: Chanel in Scotland 1931
And from then, this iconic material, tweed, was applied in the very celebrated jackets and suits from the 1950s.
Over the years, the celebrated tweed was reimagined, reinvented, season after season in Karl Lagerfeld’s collections.
Some of the most unique and fantasy tweeds of Chanel that we see today, are made in the Maison Lesage, one of Chanel’s eight esteemed savoir-faire ateliers.
Did you know… That tweeds made exclusively for Chanel have names that are linked to their inspirations, and remain exclusive for life? Some examples of the Lesage Tweed that we love from Chanel’s recent past and current collections are:
1. Cruise Cuba 2016-17
Tweed “Che Khaki & Pink”: Look 18 Jacket that referenced the military jacket of the Cuban revolutionary era. It is made of two layers assembled on the jacket. Fabric strips (muslin, satin, tulle) are cut and woven, with fringes that start from the topstitching.
3. The Modernity of Antiquity – Cruise 2017-18
Tweed “Diane”: Look 1 Dress. The tweed weave is inspired by marble and minerals. It comprises more than 20 types of different threads of muslin, ribbon, paper and boucle.
Tweed “Dionysos”: Look 3 Vest and Skirt. Inspired by amphoras and is made with more than 17 different types of threads and finished by a macrame trim.
Have a closer look at the 2017-18 Cruise Collection here.
Images courtesy of Chanel